Mehchi- Paris, France (via the Middle East)

A sampling (right to left) mehchi, harissa, and "donut stick"

During my stay in Paris, I decided to run in the mornings before each day’s adventures. I hate running, but these early morning jogs were a necessity given the amount of bread, cheese, and wine I was eating. I never wore headphones during these runs, because I was unfamiliar with the area and wanted to stay alert. However, one morning while running passed a bakery, I found myself shoulder shimmying in time to a very Middle Eastern beat.

I closed my eyes and took a deep breathe, hoping to stave off the tears that I expected to shed from missing Israel so much that I could still hear its music in my ears. With each breathe I took, the scent of sweet rose syrup, a traditional Middle Eastern ingredient for baked goods, brought me back to my days in Israel. I thought to myself, I must miss that place so much that I can actually hear the harsh and guttural sounds of the Arabic language in my head. When I finally opened my eyes, I found myself in front of an authentic Middle Eastern bakery… in the heart of Paris. The world is certainly shrinking. 

This bakery had desserts that I had never come across in all my months in Israel. Mehchi, harissa, and donuts were among some of the few treats I was able to sample. The mehchi consisted of a hard dough shell, filled to the brim with ground almonds and sesame, brown sugar, and cinnamon, covered in a thick rose syrup. The dessert was so sweet that one bite was all I needed before declaring myself full. 

Sweet and dense nut and spice filling

Unfortunately for my stomach, I always have room for dessert. So I allowed myself another sample from the Parisian-Middle Eastern confectionary. At first glance, this nameless dessert looked like nothing more than a glazed donut stick or carnival gyro. However, like the other desserts I sampled before it, it was incredibly dense, and also quick hard to bite into. The sticky glaze covering it was a sweet syrup made primarily with honey, which oddly enough, was the only ingredient that contributed any sweetness to this dessert. The donut stick itself tasted like nothing more than flour and sesame paste. I suspect it is the equivalent of an Italian biscotti- hard and slightly sweet.

The desserts in this confectionary were obviously Middle Eastern, but incredibly influenced by the Parisian clientele. Which, in this part of the city, happened to be mostly Middle Eastern. Therefore, I can only conclude that candies and desserts have no boundaries. Flavor preferences are no longer determined by the ingredients in that region, but by the people who live there. As the world gets smaller, I wonder if cultural flavors will still exist, and if different tastes will continue to impress others. 

Nougat- France

Fig Nougat

If you were ever fortunate enough to have experienced a box of chocolates in your life, you’ve probably sampled the many possible chocolate fillings that exist. Each box normally contains a variety of caramel, crème, liquid cherry, and usually, nougat fillings. My personal favorite is nougat. But until I visited France, I didn’t actually know what nougat was.

In the United States, nougat is rarely sold outside of its chocolate shell. In France, however, nougat is enjoyed as a candy in and of itself. Furthermore, it comes in a wide variety of flavors that make you wonder why it was ever hidden inside a chocolate at all!  

Nougat is made from light and frothy whipped egg whites and sugar or honey. Of course, other flavors are added for variety, including vanilla, rose, chocolate, nuts, and dried fruits. But the basic recipe always calls for whipped egg whites and sugar.  The sugar is boiled to a thick consistency (often times, cornstarch is added to speed the process) before it is combined with the eggs. After it is mixed into a marshmallow/taffy texture, other flavors can be folded in. The nougat is then set in a pan and let to cool.

In France, I had the pleasure of tasting fig flavored nougat. Having just come from Israel, my taste buds were craving some Middle Eastern treats. Some nougats can be hard, like a sucking candy. But this one was fluffy, but dense. I expected it to pulled away from my lips like a piece of taffy. But instead, it broke off like a piece of fudge. The nougat itself had a delicate and lightly sweetened flavor, which was only interrupted by the fresh pieces of figs that were interspersed in the candy.

I suppose that the reason nougat hasn’t made it big in the States is because it is not overly sweet, like the rest of the candies we eat. Furthermore, the flavors that are used to enhance it and give it variety are normally fresh ingredients that would otherwise be considered health foods (dried fruits, nuts, rose water, etc.). This candy is the perfect treat for anyone who doesn’t like overly processed or sugary delights. You can find it inside many chocolates, but why disguise the nougat’s delectable essence? 

                  

       

Macaron- Paris, France

The French are known for their cheeses. The French are known for their baguettes. The French are known for their wines, croissants, and crepes. But no one ever mentioned anything to me about their macarons. However, French macarons are a delicacy in their finest. 

The first time I saw a macaron, I thought it was a miniature, candy hamburger, like those gummy messes you find at every check-out counter in America. (Don’t worry, we have gummy pizza and fries too, in case you really feel like becoming a part of the obesity epidemic!) But that’s just my American bias screaming for a voice. Macarons are nothing like these vile candies we see. 

Instead, macarons are bite-sized sandwich cookies that come in a plethora of sweet and refreshing flavors. The cookies are made of egg-whites, almond powder, sugar, and food coloring. The filling, the part of the cookie that gives it the most flavor, is a type of jam made of anything from chocolate or cappuccino to pistachio or rose. 

The beauty of the macaron is that it is so compact, but filled with taste. Furthermore, it is a light dessert, allowing one to sample multiple flavors in one sitting. And that I did, friends…

Raspberry Macaron

Here in France, macarons are taken very seriously. Every store has their own version, but each version stays true to the original template: cookie, filling, cookie. Although macarons were perfected in France, they are originally from Italy, and their name comes from the same origins as the word “macaroni”, the roots for “fine dough”. They were initially served as single cookies, until the 1900s when chefs started sandwiching them into a mouthwatering delight. 

Today, they are served with tea, as an after breakfast snack, or a light dessert. They are always reserved as gifts from abroad. Unless of course, like me, you ate them before you got on the plane. Sorry Mom and Dad. 

Now which one should I try?!?!

Crepe- Paris, France

An Eiffel Tower made completely out of
chocolate! Only in Paris!

Bonjour from Paris! I've heard it said that this is the most romantic city in the world. Perhaps there is a culture barrier between myself and the Parisians, but I believe the saying is meant to be "the most delicious city in the world." For three days I have walked the streets of Paris. I saw the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Sacre Couer, Notre Dame, the beaches of Normandie (Northern France), Arc du'Triumph, and Bastille. But these are not the things that have impressed me the most in Paris. It will come as no shock to you that my joys in Paris have come from... the sweets. 

Crepes are a classic French dessert that many of us have tasted before, as almost every country has its own version of this treat. We've eaten them in crepe stands at fairs. We've eaten savory crepes in brunch restaurants and we've had sweet crepes for dessert. But few of us have had the pleasure of eating a crepe on the streets of Paris. Fortunately for those who have not, I can tell you all about it! 

"Crepe" is a French word for "pancake". This treat is prepared by using pancake mix and spreading it very thin on a hot, circular griddle. Because it is paper thin, the crepe shell cooks in seconds. Once it is cooked, it is folded in half. At this point, any filling is spread onto the crepe before it is folded in three, in the shape of a triangle. Unlike other triangular foods (pizza), this treat is eaten from the outside to the pointed center, where most of the filling awaits! 

Making the crepe shell.

Adding the Nutella and banana filling.

Mmmm! 

For years, crepes were reserved for French royalty, as the white flour used to make it was quite expensive. Now, they are eaten as part of any meal, and with any filling. But the most popular crepe is the chocolate crepe. In Paris, I tried a Nutella and banana crepe- a popular combination today. My mouth waters just thinking of this treat! I would be lying if I told you that this was the only crepe I had eaten in Paris, and each have been a pleasure. But don't worry, I saved room for other fine desserts as well! 

When in Paris...

Malabi- Israel

The first time I saw malabi was at a youth hostel in Jerusalem. It made an appearance on the dessert table, comfortably nestled between what looked like green and red Jello shots. I was a little bit confused as to what it was, because unlike the familiar, transparent and brightly colored Jello, this treat was slightly pink and opaque, but just as “jiggly”. My Israeli friend finished the malabi in three spoonfuls—the fourth was given to me. I immediately fell in love (with the dessert, not the Israeli).

Malabi is a gelatinous, milk-based dessert that is sweetened with rose water. The texture is most similar to a thick tapioca, without the tapioca balls. Because malabi itself is not entirely sweet or flavorful, the rose water gives it a hint of refreshing sweetness that leaves you reaching for another spoonful.

Malabi can be eaten alone, or with fresh condiments like coconut shavings and peanuts. Although this flavor combination sounds strange when paired with rose, it actually provides some texture that malabi is otherwise missing.

Children and adults enjoy this dish alike. And fortunately, it is friendly to most allergen-sensitive eaters. Although malabi is milk-based, the gelatinous texture comes from rice flour, a key ingredient. For anyone who is lactose intolerant, this dessert can also be made with water, coconut milk, or both!

As a testament to its popularity among all classes of diners, malabi can be found in almost any type of Israeli neighborhood or establishment. You can just as easily find this dessert in a brunch restaurant as you can at a street vendor. In fact, the majority of the Middle East has a version of this dessert, including Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Egypt. Outside of Israel, however, it is called muhallibieh. But any version of this dessert is a treat. As they say—a rose custard by any name is still a rose custard! 

Hidden gem: A malabi stand in an alley way by Shuk HaCarmel.

Coconut and peanut topped malabi.

Delicious!

Shachar Ha'Ole- Haifa, Israel

When in Rome, do as the Romans- this is the mentality that most travelers have when living abroad. As a visitor in Israel, I too try to fit in with the culture. As such, I’ve begun to do a shoulder shimmy when I dance, speak with my hands, and shove to the front of lines in public places. Even with all these things, nothing can make anyone more Israeli that having a jar of “Shachar Ha’Ole” in your kitchen cabinet. And you can bet your boots that my cabinets are stocked.

Shachar Ha’Ole (translating into “Bright Morning”) is a chocolate spread that has captured the hearts and stomachs of Israel for over 40 years. The company started as the Wideberg and Levkowich family business in the 1950’s. Originally from Haifa, which is where the company still stands today, the families decided to simplify their business and eliminate outside competition from other candies. Therefore, they focused on a fairly untapped market- chocolate spread.

Today, their only competition might be Nutella, but only due to its similar uses. After one bite of Shachar, you can understand why Nutella is not actually a threat. First of all, Shachar is made strictly from chocolate; there are no nuts in this spread, unlike the hazelnut base of Nutella. Secondly, as anyone who grew up eating Shachar will tell you, this chocolate spread is eaten with passion—simply slab it on your food or dip your spoon/finger into it, and enjoy.

A recent marketing campaign for Shachar in Israel depicts photos of proper adults eating the spread with a “Shachar smile” on their face, almost like a milk moustache, or dipping their fingers to it. The tagline, in Hebrew reads, "Enjoy like a child." This is because Shachar is reminiscent of youth and brings Israelis back to simpler times when their mothers used to make Shachar and pita sandwiches for them after school. Israelis compare their attachment to Shachar to the way Americans grew up on peanut butter—there’s probably some pb in your cabinet right now, America!

As an adult, you can still eat Shachar with your pita. Many restaurants use it to cook with and make mouthwatering confections, like chocolate cakes or icing. One boutique ice-cream shop actually has Shachar flavored ice-cream! And because this snack is kosher for Passover (permissible to eat during the restrictive diet days of Passover), it is even a welcome condiment for matzah!

Every day, the Shachar factory produces 40,000 cases of Shachar Ha’Ole. In March 2008, production increased to meet necessary demands after thieves broke into the factory and stole 100 tons of the treat! (Only one case was retrieved after this clever heist.) 

Shachar production.

Shachar production line.

 Shachar comes in a number simply delectable varieties. There is the original milk chocolate spread, as well as a bitter version, a non-dairy version, white chocolate, and cappuccino! Look out for new flavors coming out this summer. Fortunately for anyone outside of Israel, Shachar is sold in specialty and kosher stores around the world. And of course, for anyone who hasn’t had Shachar in some years, the recipe is the same one you ate as a child, so get ready for the memories to come flowing back! 

The Shachar that was in my cabinet... is now finished.

Bamba- Holon, Israel

A few weeks ago, I went on a 4-day hike with several Israelis. One of the foods that I brought on this hike in order to sustain myself was peanut butter. I figured it is protein dense, filling, and can be eaten as part of a meal, or as dessert. To me, peanut butter is a perfect food. 

When I removed the peanut butter jar from my backpack, one of the Israelis immediately shouted, “Oh! Peanut butter! Peanut butter comes from Bamba.” I know he was joking, because everyone knows peanut butter comes from peanuts, right? But this statement was a perfect testament to the popularity of the Bamba snack in Israel. 

Bamba was created in 1963, and the sales have not declined since the first store shelf emptied. Others have compared the texture of Bamba to a puffed Cheeto without the cheese. In fact, this was initially how Bamba started out- but the cheesy taste was not nearly as appealing to Israelis as it is to Americans. Therefore, cheese was replace with a powdery peanut butter coat. The result is a light, savory snack that leaves you licking your fingers for more! 

Bamba became a household name after it was given to soldiers during the Six Day War because of it is light-weight, filling, and easily preserved. The snack was brought home from the battle field and is now a staple in every Israeli lunchbox. 

The key to Bamba’s success in Israel is its mildly sweet flavor. Israelis tend to shy away from dense confections like flans or chocolates. As the world shrinks and the food choices here become more influenced by outside forces, like Belgium’s sweet chocolates and American’s sugar high, the sweet gene is becoming more apparent in Israeli foods. Bamba even introduced two new flavors within the past few years—strawberry and nougat-filled. Only time will dictate the success of these new tastes in this region. 

In front of the Bamba factory in Holon.

Bamba is made by heating corn kernels into a puffed up and weightless “Cheeto” shape, very similar to packaging peanuts or foam insulation. The long strands of “puff” are then cut into inch-sized pieces and placed in a large bin. The bin spins so that when peanut butter is poured in, every last piece is coated to a powdery perfection. 

Natives and tourists of all ages can be found sharing a bag of Bamba with friends. They are a staple at most parties, and a favorite to most anyone who tries them. This snack can be found in every convenience store and supermarket in Israel, as well as Kosher specialty stores worldwide. 

Bamba prominently displayed in a Tel Aviv convenience store.

Stickhouse- Tel Aviv, Israel (via Italy)

When I think Israel, my mind immediately conjures up a picture of the desert. And for the most part, the sweltering heat that comes along with sand dunes and camel rides is an accurate weather forecast on a typical Israeli day. But this winter has been a particularly cruel one for Israel- months of gray and windy days, cold rain and sometimes icy hail. And even in this frigid, atypical weather, Stickhouse, Israel’s own Italian gelato popsicle chain, is still packed with customers waiting for their mouthwateringly unique “articim” (popsicles).

The Stickhouse concept originated in Italy, and was brought to the Holy Land through franchising by Israel’s own Shachar Levi- a trained pastry chef and accomplished businessman. Although plenty of popsicle companies already exist in Israel, Stickhouse immediately stood out to Shachar as something special. 

The ingredients are all natural and consist only of the follow ingredients: milk, soy milk, cream, yogurt, and fresh fruit. When Shachar compared the ingredients label of another popular popsicle to me, each flavor component seemed to be a synthesized chemical. Shachar ironically asked, “Where’s the cream?!” And sure enough, this ice-cream bar lacked that critical ingredient! Hence, Shachar also felt the need to bring natural flavor back to Israel. 

Although Stickhouse is a chain, the flavor options in Israel are unique to the land, and kept secret from the other Stickhouses worldwide. Shachar uses his confectionary talents to replicate popular flavors like chocolate and vanilla, as well as to create tastes that are unique to the Israeli palate, like tahini and pistachio. 

Shachar Levi- Franchise Owner and Manager

The recipes are combined at a small workspace in store. Once they are mixed together, the ingredients are transferred to a patented freezing machine where employees need only to stick a popsicle stick in each base before freezing the popsicle mixtures. The entire freezing process takes approximately 15 minutes. Once complete, the popsicles are flash frozen for good measure, and are either transferred to the store-front of placed in the freezer for later use. Although each frozen pop can stay fresh in the freezer for up to 6 months, they usually have to create a new batch every 3-4 days because of how quickly they sell! 

In the store, customers can choose to doctor up their popsicles according to their own flavor preference. A variety of melted chocolates are available that turn into a hard shell once the popsicle is removed from the dip. And chopped nuts also make a nice addition. I myself ate a delicious, all natural, cheesecake-popsicle, half-dipped in chocolate. I could hardly resist my urge to reach for a second treat! 

What’s next for Stickhouse? Popsicle cakes! Make your next birthday cake hassle free by putting each piece onto a unique popsicle stick! This innovative idea will be coming out in the next few months… but the suspense is killing me!

There are currently over 100 Stickhouses in Israel- proof that our world is shrinking. How else do you explain a traditionally Italian treat served up Israeli style in the heart of the desert? 

So many delicious flavors to choose from!

Kanafeh- Israel (Arab-Israeli)

Chocolate heals a broken heart, although Ben & Jerry’s can be equally successful. Twizzlers, to me, are movie candies- the sweetness of the strawberry licorice paired with salty popcorn is enough to make any movie worth seeing. Cakes are for celebrations. But kanafeh? Kanafeh is simply an experience. 

I’ve eaten kanafeh twice in my life; both times were in Israel. The first time, I was 21 years old and urged by an old friend to head to Jerusalem for the best middle-eastern dessert that the Arab people had to offer. This time, I sought it out myself, in the heart of Tel Aviv. If my memory served me correctly, this dish was “achla” (“wonderful”, in Arabic/Hebrew slang), and worth the trip to the shuk (outdoor market where you can find anything from vegetables and breads to costumes and curry flavored sesame seeds). 

The shuk is often crowded with shouts from vendors to come purchase from the best, smells of raw fish and sewage, pushy Israelis trying to make their way past tourists like me, and of course, food booths. This particular shuk, “Shuk HaCarmel” is located on a narrow side street on the busiest intersection in Tel Aviv. 

Most of the booths have beautiful displays of fresh and local vegetables for the best prices this side of the Galilee. The kanafeh booth, however, is more of an isolated table in the middle of the shuk. Once I approached, I figured out why this confection vendor stands alone among the hustle and bustle of the marketplace. 

The old man who makes this dessert stands confidently by his sweets. His hands are visibly worn from years of preparing this unique dish. He’s perfected his recipe over the years to the point where he is certain that his culinary creation will sell, without the need for customer service. Simply stated, the man is rude! He doesn’t care to elaborate on his feelings of the dish, his recipe, or the history of kanafeh. Therefore, I had to do some online research for a background on kanafeh, but I assure you the experience is all my own. 

Kanafeh is a sweet pastry made from layers of thread-thin, crispy dough with nabulsi cheese (a sweet cottage-cheese-like filling), drizzled in sugar- and rose-water. Often times, it is topped with crushed pistachio to add to the crunch, and coated with orange food-coloring. This dessert dates back to the middle ages of Arab culture and is often cooked in large pans, double the size of a pizza-pie dish. 

In my most recent kanafeh experience, I approached the vendor to ask if he could tell me a little bit about the dessert. His response was a dismissive “I don’t have time for this”, in Arabic-accented Hebrew, of course. (To elaborate, he had no other customers at the moment but me.) Alas, I was persistent. So I asked him for a slice of his dessert. 

He proceeded to slab a mouse-pad-sized serving of moist kanafeh on a square Styrofoam plate, and charged me 10 shekels for my purchase. (This translates into approximately $2.50.) It wasn’t the price of the dish that bothered me, but the amount he gave me. It would have been impossible (well, maybe not impossible, but certainly unhealthy) for me to eat the entire serving. 

I asked him to cut the serving down to half of what he had given me. So he removed half of the kanafeh and returned the plate to me. Again, I asked him how much he would like. Again, he responed, “10 shekels.” I looked at him, confused. I might not speak his language, but I know that if you remove half of my purchase, I should only pay half of the original price. Determined to get 10 shekels from me, he added a small piece of baklava to my plate. Annoyed, I paid the man his 10 shekels, and walked away with what I’ll call a “piggy-portion” of dessert, all for me. 

This particular kanafeh was not the warm, moist dish I remembered from Jerusalem. However, there was no mistaking its distinct rose-water flavor and phyllo-dough crunch. Kanafeh is a staple dish at Arabic celebrations and can be found in many Middle-Eastern specialty stores in the US. Fortunately for me, I have the authentic version of this dish at my disposal, just down the street. Unfortunately, acquiring it necessitates interacting with, quite possibly, the least friendly Arab-Israeli I have yet to meet in this country. But the dessert is so unique and decadent that it is often worth the aggravation… and the ten shekels. 

 (This content can also be found on the Taste TLV website: www.tastetlv.com )